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Thing two about Norway

Another, far less poetic post about my visit to Norway. This time:

It’s not just bad PR. It really is fucking expensive.

Forgive the profanity, but I was always taught that if you know how you use the language well, then you know when it is appropriate to use profanity, and let me tell you, it is appropriate.

So, yeah, it’s pricey.

To give some context, at the time that I went to Norway, I had been in the UK for about 8 weeks. I’d been spending pounds, not dollars, and the conversion happens pretty smoothly in my head, when I need it to. Generally, I just assume that stuff costs twice as much as it does at home and I’m almost always pleasantly surprised. Not to mention the time that I have spent living in the Bay Area and San Diego, where the climate is welcoming enough to overcome a cost of living that says, “get out! go away! we don’t want any!”

The Norwegian Kroner, at the time of my visit, was 10 to the pound. Most of the time, I only did one currency conversion in my head and I told myself that this trip was being financed by my savings, every birthday gift I received, and a need to visit my cultural homeland and get it out of my system.

So, a quick overview of some things I paid for (go ahead and use the MasterCard commercial guy’s voice instead of mine):

Private room in a YHA Hostel with breakfast: 880 kroner
Tea in a YHA hostel: 20 kroner
Glass of draught lager: 67 kroner
One bed in an 8 bunk room in YHA Hostel: 220 kroner
Lefse with butter at a farmer’s market: 40 kroner

Seeing the very scenery that gave the fjords their name: priceless. (Unqualified apology goes here.)

So, just to review. Yes, I did spend well over $3 for hot water in a cup with a tea bag and a teaspoon of milk. Also, I really did spend $11 for less than one pint of beer that could be most reasonably compared to MGD. Actually, in the interest of full disclosure, I spent that $11 at least once every night of my trip, and on my very most self-indulgent moment (the night of the 8-bunk dorm that was the result of a pension house that had double booked), I paid that $11 three times.

Now, about this lefse stuff that cost me six and a half bucks. Twice. If you don’t know what lefse is, it is the only purely Norwegian food item that I grew up with. To me, it is a very, very tasty symbol of my cultural heritage. It is essentially mashed potatoes with enough flour and butter in them grill them into large pancake-y, tortilla-y things. When they sell them at the farmer’s market, they are spread with and folded around the most wonderfully tasty homemade butter. So tasty, in fact, that you recognize the price might well be reflective of the calorie content and you no longer care.

I still sort of plan to do a final accounting of my trip, though I’m not sure what purpose that will serve. In the end, I could not imagine doing it for less. I ate nutrition bars for all meals, save dinner each night, and aside from that one cup of tea in the hostel in Voss, I indulged in exactly one cup of coffee to accompany my second lefse. No kidding, I wasn’t this frugal when I was a public school teacher.

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Thing one about Norway

For five days near the end of July I went to Norway. There are only three things I need to say about this trip, and here’s the first.

It’s not just clever marketing. It really is breathtaking.

The biggest reason that I chose to go to Norway was to see the fjords. I got my first taste of fjords in Alaska a few summers ago, and that experience did nothing but fuel my geological geekery. My absolute favorite kind of land form (see? geek is not too strong of a word–how many of you have a favorite kind of land form?) is granite carved by glaciers. Absolutely, hands down, the most beautiful, striking, dramatic and wonderful kind of land, in my opinion.

The fjords along the northern coast of Norway are just that. They’re not really different from Yosemite in how they were created, except that instead of a valley floor that is several thousand feet above sea level, the valley floor is several thousand feet below.

My need to see fjords actually informed the entire trip. I went to Bergen, in north, called the “cultural capital of Norway” as well as the “gateway to the fjords.” Aside from Bergen, I spent a few days in a lakeside town called Voss. My experience of these two cities was interrupted by one very long day where I rode no less than three buses, three boats and a train in order to see as much fjord as possible.

Some Fjordy Goodness

Some Fjordy Goodness

We cruised the Hardangerfjord, the Eidfjord, and a couple of other narrow inlets. We saw glaciers, salmon, seals and sheep. We went through many many tunnels, including one that was an actual spiral, curving dramatically down the inside of the mountain. We visited the Hardagervidda Nature Center, where I had to come to the very frustrating conclusion that my love of all things granite-carved-by-ice had gotten me to a place where I can no longer learn anything about geology from your average interpretive center or tour guide. The Hardangervidda Nature Center was also where I photographed goats grazing on the roof of the restaurant/gift show. So, at least it’s got that going for it.

Goats on the Roof!

Goats on the Roof!

As far as it goes, I am very glad that I made this trip a priority for my summer. Every day I see things that strike me as beautiful. Even as I write this, I am watching rolling green hills quilted by dry stone walls and dotted with clean white sheep whiz by and it is really quite grand. Still, just a few days in Norway sort of changes your perspective on just how literal breathtaking can be.

Go check out the flickr set of pictures. Of course, I recommend the comments as I do tell some stories.

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We are family

Cory and Jaime came up to Edinburgh last weekend for a bit of castle, a bit of drinking and a bit of theater. It was the last leg of my brother’s London to Edinburgh adventure which also included stops at Stonehenge, Manchester, and Liverpool.

The absolute most disappointing thing about the entire adventure is that there is not a single picture of the three of us together. I’m not even sure there’s a picture of any two of us together. Paul was here, too, and we still didn’t get any. Boring.

Oh, except this one of my sister, eating an exceptional jacket (in the U.S. we say “baked”) potato, is too cute not to share:

Cory and I disagree.

Jaime calls this breakfast.

Aside from not taking pictures, there’s not a lot that we did not do.

We did tour the Castle. We did walk the length of the Royal Mile. We did tour Holyrood, the Queen’s summer home. We did visit the cafe where one J.K. is said to have created one of the most popular fictional characters of our time. We did go to a (disappointing) art museum. We did see a puppet dry heaving with a bra around his head and a stand up comedian from Liverpool that we had to fight to understand. We did eat at what must be some of Edinburgh’s best restaurants. We did drink, every night of their visit, at Lebowski’s (which is, not surprisingly, “More than a restaurant, a way of life.”). It was also at Lebowski’s where we did (well, Cory did) trick the same guy with the same bar trick on two consecutive nights.

Of course, we did also argue, analyze, chatter, discuss, disagree, chuckle, chortle, laugh, giggle, and enjoy each other’s company immensely.

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Prodigal

So. Hi.  :)

I’m here, I’m alive, I’m well, and I’ve been knitting/traveling/working like crazy. Not a lot of time left for blogging, but I’ll make you a deal. You forgive me for a month-long hiatus (which you probably have already done), and in return, I’ll post one new blog post every week day for two weeks–that’s 10 consecutive posts (that I was going to write anyway). Deal? Deal.

Right this second, I have next to nothing interesting to report. I mean it. Shockingly little. I am still working on my Couch to 5k, albeit with some delays caused by an injury caused by really worn out shoes and remedied by a shiny new pair.  As far as I can tell, summer ended before the month of August, because it hasn’t been over 60 degrees here in about a week.

Even though it’s colder and wetter and darker, I’m not terribly upset because it means that I get to wear different clothes than I did last week, and it’s a bit upsetting how exciting that is. Beth told me this would happen, and I am surprised to find that she was entirely correct. I am beginning to seriously despise the clothes that I have brought with me. I have a growing list of things that I know will not be returning to the States with me, and I am practicing incredible restraint in not purchasing replacements.

Money is for food, beer and plane tickets, you see.

Oh! How’s this for blog fodder–I’ll tell you what to expect over the next couple of weeks.

In the coming days, I’ll post pictures and reflections on my trip to Norway that was my 33rd birthday present. I’ll tell you about a day trip that Paul and I took and about how the Arts and Crafts and Art Deco movements both basically started in Glasgow. There’s the Cambridge Folk Festival to tell you about, where the most surprising things were a sunburn and the amount of bagpipes I listened to and enjoyed. There is, of course, my 33rd birthday, which still moves me to shake my head in disbelief at the generosity and kindness of people who hardly even know me. I will tell you about a trip to London with Paul and several members of his family on the occasion of his mum’s 60th birthday. Aside from that trip, August has been all about Edinburgh and the Fringe Festival, though, and I have attended something like 25 performances in the past few weeks. I might also mention my very-new-but-expanding-faster-than-our-universe obsession with BBC quiz shows. Finally, I’ll be happy to report on the weekend that I spent with my brother, my sister, my Paul, and lots and lots of Guinness and Bailey’s (incidentally, I am aware that I am in Scotland, not Ireland).

So. Lots to look forward to. I better get cracking.

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